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Travel Diary
Sri Lanka is a small (
400 x 200 km) and diversified island with high hills, great beaches, wild life,
friendly people, good simple food and more. Kids go to school for 12 years and study
English, so many people have a basic understanding of English. People are nice,
friendly, helpful, value the tourist and even more so his pocket.
Summary
It is common practice to quote sky-high prices to foreigners, and bargaining is expected. (A tourist can be asked to pay 2000 Rupees (R) for a room for which a local person will pay 500R. 2000R are about 20$ so it may still appear very cheap to a Westerner).
If one is looking for a Western-like country, with good transportation, easy communication, available information, and good infrastructure, one should not travel to Sri Lanka. Sri Lanka is a developing country. Many of its people do not have running water in their homes, eat with their hands, walk barefoot, ride old dusty ,smoky and crowded buses, yet send their kids to school dressed in spotless white uniforms.
The common means of transportation for tourists are the famous 3-wheeler (tuktuk) buses, trains, and of course walking.
A tuktuk can cost 15-20R per kilometer (km), 500-600R for a 5-hour return trip, and 800-1000R for a whole day. All costs are ballpark figures.
With a hired van, (sometimes referred to as 'taxi'), which typically comes with a driver (sometimes referred to as 'guide'. Some drivers are in fact guides), things are a bit more complicated.
The cost of a van +
driver (including the driver's accommodation and food) is 3000R a day, and
sometimes can reach as high as 4500R for one-day trips with high mileage.
Having tried traveling both with a hired van and without one (using public transportation), I realized that there are additional costs, which should be taken into consideration. Every guesthouse (GH) which we came to when accompanied by our driver quoted high prices, in the range of 1800-2200R per couple. At comparable GHs where we arrived without a van/driver we paid 600-800R. Is the difference due to the driver's accommodation and
food ? A driver's commission? Your guess is as good as mine.
Buses are a different saga. There are "government buses" and private buses, some of which are air-conditioned (referred to as "AC bus").
The government buses are cheaper and slower. The difference in price is sometimes very small, but safety should also be considered. Private buses tend to go faster and take more risks to make more money. (I witnessed a bad accident caused by two private buses racing each other to get to passengers).
I did not see people smoking in buses.
A short distance ride on a bus can cost 5-15R (approximately 5-15 American cents), a 2-3 hour journey on a government bus can cost 60R or so, a 6- hour journey 150R on a government bus and 250 on an AC bus.
Trains are yet another slow means of transportation. From what I saw, 3rd class was very dirty and can get very crowded, 2nd class had better seats and was less dirty. In first class on night trains you get a cabin with 2 beds.
Sri Lanka is a paradise for photographers, not only because of its scenery, wild life and more, but also because people like to pose for a photograph. A camera attracts attention and people are pleased to have their kids and themselves photographed.
Fuji and Kodak negative
films are widely available (230-270R for a roll of 36), and in some places you
can also get media for digital cameras. If you use something more exotic like
Velvia I guess you'll have to bring it with you.
Thursday, 27/4/05
Just before I left my home, the kids turned the TV on and there it was – a map of Sri Lanka on the screen, with a red star-like shape marked near Kandy, which was my first destination. It was a relief to hear that it was not a Tamil act of terror. Only a bus-train collision that took 80 or so lives.
Half an hour later a bus smashed the left hand mirror of the taxi I was in, going to the airport.
Just after I was seated in the Royal Jordanian plane, I managed to spill a cup of juice over the seat. Fortunately it wasn’t my seat. Things were definitely getting better.
One hour after landing, I found myself with a friend I met in Colombo airport at a crowded and messy bus station
boarding a public bus to Kandy.
63 Rupees and 3 hours got us dusty sweaty
charred and
tired to Kandy.
At Kandy’s main bus station we found Namal, or actually he found us. Namal, a nice young tuktuk driver became our favorite guide and driver for our stay in Kandy.
Namal took us to a reasonable GH he knew, up the hill, near the northeast side of the lake where we got a double room with a bathroom (800R, all ants included).
We had a lunch in the fancy but not so good History restaurant (1000R per couple) and strolled through the main road of Kandy. The British Garrison cemetery was crowded with monkeys and there was an elephant chained at the Temple of the Tooth. We went into the Temple of the Tooth as well as another “must see” : traditional Sri Lanka dance show.
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Friday,28/4/05
Second day in Sri Lanka and two more tourist attractions. Namal, the devoted tuktuk driver took us to the beautiful Botanic Gardens (300R) and later to Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage (500R) the latter looking more like a tourist trap than an orphanage.
We spent the afternoon planning our next days by visiting the tourist information. We hired a driver with a mini van who was recommended by the GH lady. The driver was Balcky and his fee was set to 3000R a day, all included.
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Saturday 30/4/05
After breakfast we paid our bill and left the GH with Blacky.
Our next stop was Dambula where we climbed to the cave temples. The round trip, climbing up, and descending, took us about 90 minutes.
Later, at about 4PM we had another climb, to the Sigeria fortress. This one was much longer and steeper. Although it was in the afternoon, it was hot and humid which did not make the climb easier. Sigeria is a very special place.
On our way to Giritale where we spent the night, we saw a sad result of the mad driving style of Sri Lanka. Two private buses where racing each other, each trying to get to the passengers down the road first. One of the buses tried to overtake the other, and hit a truck, which was going in the opposite direction, loaded with watermelons. The truck overturned and caught fire while the three men inside where struggling to get out.
All the rooms we were offered, since we were with Blacky, were in the range of 1800-2000R a night. The room in Kandy, which was better than most, was 800R a night. Were we paying for the driver’s room as well ?
Sunday, 1/5/05
The first half day from morning to late noon was devoted to touring Polonuwara ancient city, starting at the interesting museum. The day was very hot (it felt like 40C or so) and walking through the vast area of the ancient city was not easy although Blacky and his air-conditioned car did help.
Polonuwara ancient city is very well preserved. It is an impressive site also for people with no special interest in history or archeology.
In the afternoon we hired a driver with a 4 by 4 vehicle (2500R for 4
hours. Outrageous price).
The driver promised to show us elephants and wild
life. We did see a small herd of 7 elephants
near
the road (there was no real need for a 4x4 vehicle) and had a pleasant tour in
a nice greenish countryside.
At dusk when we were still on the 4x4, a heavy monsoon rain started.
It was a nice combination of rain, fresh cool
air, a sunset, and the green jungle in the background.
The heavy heat kills the appetite, so the daily diet was based on mineral water, fruit and ice cream. To compensate for it, we went into the tiny Orient restaurant in Giritale, where we were served with a good expensive (2000R) dinner.
Monday, 2/5/05
We spent most of the day driving from Giritale to Nuwara Eliya. We stopped at a village near Mahingana where a tribe of 350 people that were referred to as “natives” live. The village looked quite poor with no electricity and like many villages no running water in the houses. The houses were mostly made of mud bricks and wood. I couldn’t avoid feeling sorry for these poor people putting on costumes dancing and performing acts for tourists. It all had very touristic flavor and not an authentic one.
Driving along the narrow and steep road toward Nuwara Eliya we saw magnificent views.
As we climbed up, the temperatures dropped and we were surrounded by green rice terraces and tea bushes, with lakes and rivers running down below in the valleys,
Arriving at Nuwara Eliya we checked into the Haddon Hill Inn, where we got a nice spacious room with a shower for 1000R per night.
We said goodbye to Blacky who was very helpful and knowledgeable (ajithasela@yahoo.com).
Tuesday, 3/5/05
We started the day with a short climb from the Haddon Hill Inn to the Single Tree peak through the green fields of tea bushes. The views from the top, with the blue skies at the background looked like a post card.
We had a late breakfast at the good and not expensive Milano restaurant (which is run by Muslims) where we became regulars. Breakfast was followed by some necessary shopping and exchange of money and a one-hour or so walk to see the interesting tea making process in Pedro Tea Estate.
A heavy rain started when we were on our way back.
We found a driver to take us to Horton’s Plains early the morning after (1500R).
(Tip: Horton’s Plains is about mid-way between Nuwara Eliya and Haputale. It is possible to continue from Horton’s Plains to Haputale).
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Wednesday 4/5/05
We started before dawn to get to Horton’s Plains early. The way took us up the hills through morning mist and clouds well below us, valleys spotted with lakes and rivers all colored by the warm colors of the rising sun.
We had an interesting small breakfast at the small canteen at the gate of Horton’s Plains (simple interesting and not expensive local food) and paid the unavoidable high entry fee (1500R each).
The park was very special. Green park, with rivers, elks, and waterfalls and of course the very nice views from the World’s End.
It was 3-4 hour walk on a cloudy day, cool temperatures and some drizzle.
Thursday 5/5/05
Another cloudy day in Nuwara Eliya. The driver who we hired for a short tour did not show up at 6:15 am as planned. We walked to the center to have breakfast when he showed up with some excuse. He also informed us that trains were on strike so we could not take a train to Ella as we planned. A 44R ticket and 3 hours bus ride got us to Ella.
The bus dropped us off at the “center” of Ella. A dusty cross road with some “Curd and Honey” (Curd is a very tasty local yogurt) and other tiny shops.
A quick stop for Curd and Honey and then a short tour of guesthouses in the area got us into the Rawana Holiday Resort (650R). The GH offered nice spacious rooms with a shower and a balcony facing the view and delicious and cheap food. . Sunetra was the friendly lady who run it.
Friday, 6/5/05
I started at Little Adam’s peak just after dawn, had “breakfast”
in a kiosk
nearby and spent the rest of the day along the same road (Passara Road) walking
from village to village with tea fields and nice views all along the way.
It was a day of talking to many local people, taking many photos of views, tea fields and tea-pickers and kids.
Saturday, 7/5/05
The day started with beautiful blue skies, and ended up, as most of the days during our stay, with heavy rain.
The heavy rains made the usually white waterfalls, muddy and brown. (Tip: If you want to see the waterfalls you don't have to follow the long Lonely Planet © route. Simply go to mountain Heaven Hotel and you'll get a good view of the waterfalls).
Another day of going from one village to the next, this time along the railway tracks, going towards Bandara Wela. I spoke to people en route, sat with Dayani outside her house by the waterfalls and saw her doing the laundry in the running water (which waters her rice field) in her front yard and was invited to participate in Sangivanies 7th birthday.
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Sunday, 8/5/05
Got up at 4:30am and went by Tuktuk to Ella's train station to take the 5:30am to Badula.
When we got to the station it was still closed, and the cleaner informed us about a one hour delay.
I went down to the village and had a morning tea (as always, it was served with milk and very sweet, although I asked for "no sugar”) and Levery: noodles with a sweet coconut filling.
The train left at 7:00am . Only 90 minutes late.
The views on the ways to Badula were the nice views one gets used to in the hill country.
The train's 2nd class was dirty, and the 3rd class was filthy.
We had a 50 minute stop in Badula and we took a short walk in the very colorful adjacent Sunday market.
After the short break we took the train from Badula to Haputale, this time on the "Observation Car". The Observation Car is the last car in the train, with more comfortable reclining seats facing backwards. And a large back window from which you view the scenes. The cost of a seat in the Observation Car is relatively high (500R regardless of how far you go).
After a short stop for a Coke
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We choose Amarasinghe which is highly recommended by Lonely Planet © and definitely the best in Haputale. We got a special off-season price (650 for a couple).
Haputale Sunday market was the 2nd market we visited that day. Hiding from the heavy afternoon rain, under the makeshift abarsin roof of a spice stand, we had an interesting conversation with the owner, who was a kind and gentle man, with reasonably good English. The long conversation covered many topics such as foreign affairs, tea coffee and health and of course the Tsunami of 26/12/2004 .
The guy who is a Buddhist Singhalese (another person on his team was a Catholic Tamil) told us he was involved in voluntary assistance to the Tsunami refugees. He went to one of the disaster areas two days after the disaster, to help.
Mon, 9/5/05
Another day with an early start. At 6:30am I was already walking along
the railway going west towards the next station (Idalgashinna) as recommended
by Lonely Planet©.
what Lonely Planet© doesn't tell you is that the road from Haputale to Ohiya crosses the railway about 2 km west from Haputale near by a non-active railway station called Gelvanor (by the 152 milestone on the railway), so you could take a bus or a tuktuk to or from this spot, to shorten the 8km track recommended by Lonely Planet © to 6.
About one mile after the 151 milestone I went downhill towards Gelvanor.
I had breakfast at the local gourmet grocery shop ( jam filled pastry,
banana and very sweet tea. 23 R)
and walked back east towards the Haputale – Ohiya road
among the green green tea fields under a very blue sky.
After taking some pictures of a 3 year old kid who was standing at the door of his home, I was invited in and had tea with his grandfather who is a clerk in the tea factory 59 years old, and about to retire.
I took a tuktuk back to Haputale (120R) for some shopping, and a coffee and brownie- like pastry.
We took an afternoon walk going east towards the two tea factories. It was cool and foggy as the whole area was covered by cloud.
On our way back, we were invited, again, for tea. This time it was a nice short visit to a Tamil Muslim family. A young woman (19) was an English teacher and could speak basic English. We were about to leave when they asked for and got some money.
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Tue, 10/5/05
We hired a tuktuk for a round trip to Diyaluma falls (700R). The journey
to the falls took 1 hour. While my friend tried (successfully) to find her way
up to the falls and pools and down again (less successfully) I walked my way
back to Haputale (25 km) hopping on and off
local buses,
taking pictures and talking to
people.
Haputale doesn't offer too many options for dinner. It is either your G.H or another G.H. The dinner at Cues-Ta Inn was long (food arrived 2 hours after we ordered it). The soups were superb and the curries OK (825R per couple). Overall Amarasinghe offers a better deal.
Wednesday, 11/5/05
We started on our way back home. We took a morning private air-conditioned bus from Haputale to Colombo (250R. A government bus is 140R. A 1st class train seat 500R and a 2nd class train seat 250R). We boarded the bus after verifying that seats were available.
The small bus was very crowded, but the driver was OK. This made the 6 hour journey tolerable.
We checked into the Renuka Hotel for a reasonable off-season price (50$ per couple) and did some shopping.
Tomorrow a 7am flight Colombo – Amman – Tel Aviv.
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| Last Modified: 13/Sep/05 |
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